Oiled Solid Wood


Wood are a natural material which comes in a variety of species. At Fritz Hansen Oak, Maple, Beech, Cherry and Ash are the mostly used solid wood. Each species comes with their own properties in terms of color, texture, pattern, strength, hardness etc. Each species also has large variations in color and grain structure. 
Furthermore, the processing of wood can influence the final visual impression. 
At Fritz Hansen all solid wood comes from highest sorting class which are processed to be used in conditioned environment, and should not contain defects as cracks (from drying), unsound dead knots, sapwood (outer water transporting layer of wood) etc. 


For maintenance of oiled wood surfaces, use oil, an abrasive sponge and a cloth (lint-free). For oak, use white pigmented oils and for walnut, use clear oil. The oil will penetrate the grain of the wood building dirt and create a water-repellent coat that protects the wood and gives it finish. The oil also cares for and maintains the light colour of the oak or ash, and leaves a smooth and silk matt surface. 


To prevent the wood from drying out and to maintain the appearance of the table, we recommend treating the table twice after receiving it, and subsequently three to four times a year or as needed. 


The surface must be thoroughly cleaned and dry before applying any oil. Clean with normal soapy water (not concentrated soap/washing-up liquid) and wipe dry immediately with a dry cloth. Clean the surface approx. 12 hours before the oil treatment. 

When applying the oil to ensure proper adhesion, use an abrasive sponge to abrade the surface. It is important to work in the direction of the grain when abrading. Shake the oil bottle well and apply the oil generously using a cloth. The surface must be glistening, and the oil allowed 15 to 20 minutes to be absorbed. 
Remove any excess oil with a lint-free cloth until the wood is completely smooth to the touch. Leave the table to dry overnight. For optimal results we recommend repeating the treatment in points 2-4 (several times). 

The oil-treated surface can be used with care after approx. 24 hours. The oil will have hardened fully after 7 days, and the table will be completely ready for use. If any dry spots appear within 24 hours of treatment, then the treatment should be repeated. 

NOTE, when working with abrading materials such as soft cleaning sponges and sandpaper, always work in the direction of the grain. Always abrade over a larger area to avoid creating a depression. WARNING: oil cloths and sponges may self-ignite if not properly stored. Destroy oil cloths and sponges by rinsing in cold water or keep in airtight metal or glass containers. Never pour oil directly onto furniture and never use steel wool. Please note that the warranty does not cover damage caused by improper adhesion. 


  • SMALL SCRATCHES: Small scratches can be smoothed by sanding in the direction of the grain using grit 220 sandpaper. Repeat the oil treatment after sanding. 
  • STEEL ON OAK: Avoid leaving steel objects on oak for long periods of time. The steel will react with the wood and leave black marks that can only be removed by abrasion. 
  • SCUFF MARKS: Remove marks with an eraser or a soft cleaning sponge wetted with a little oil. Repeat the oil treatment if needed. 
  • STAINS FROM LIQUIDS (RED WINE, GREASE AND OIL): Carefully rub the stain with a soft cleaning sponge wetted with oil. If the stains have been absorbed into the wood, sand with grit 180 sandpaper, then with grit 220 sandpaper. The wood is now untreated and must be oiled following the above directions. The treated area may become a little lighter, particularly in darker woods. This effect will wear off over time. 
  • CANDLE WAX: Let the candle wax solidify and remove as much as possible with a sharp object - be careful not to scratch the wood. Then carefully rub the stain with a soft cleaning sponge wetted with a little oil. 
  • DENTS AND SCRATCHES: Most dents can be mended if wood fibres have not been broken. Brush the dents with lukewarm water (the water will raise the wood). Once dry, sand the surface with grit 220 sandpaper. Repeat the oil treatment after sanding. 
  • PENS, WATERCOLOUR AND MARKERS: Try to remove as much of the stain as possible using heavy blotting paper and a solvent that matches the stain, e.g. Alcohol for marker or felt tip pen stains. 
  • INK: Try to remove the stain with the foam from a mild detergent and a brush. Do not use too much water. If this does not have  any effect try alcohol or Benzine for cleaning. If this also does not work try to sand the stain away by sanding the stain and a large area around. Use fine sandpaper (Grain 240-320). Treat the table with oil afterwards. 
  • BURN MARKS: In most cases, superficial burn marks can be removed by abrasion. Avoid abrading on a local area as this may create a depression. Instead abrade over a larger area. You may want to consult a professional (e.g. a cabinetmaker) before you attempt to repair the damage yourself. 

Solid wood can withstand almost everything except two things: Steel wool and ammoniac as these substances create a chemical reaction in the wood because of the natural acidity in the wood. 


For tables, make sure that nothing is placed on the surface in the same place for long, as this will result in stains and discoloration.